Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
